We were on a mission from the food god. Unlikely as it seems when one finds themselves on a road trip from Michigan through Ohio to Western New York and criss-crossing Pennsylvania in search of roadside attractions (like the big coffee pot and the the ice cream stand that is actually a giant sundae), historic amusement parks (Kennywood and Hershey) and the world's largest and only elephant museum, Mr Ed's (where they roast their own nuts). But yet, amongst the kitsch, we had some very good eats - soup dumplings at the only Chinese restaurant in Pittsburgh to serve them (see With Three You Get Soup Dumplings), authentic Mexican, killer Italian, diner food to die for (see Grilled Cheese, American Style) and yes, the piece de resistance - sandwiches at Primanti Brothers. Okay, this is a weird Western Pennsylvania thing, but they put french fries IN everything, even salads. Yes, I said salads, like with lettuce and tomato. Primanti, almost famous since 1933, started as a food cart catering to truckers in Pittsburgh's Strip (warehouse) district who needed an easy meat and potato lunch on the go. Their most famous menu item is the Pitts-burger, a grilled rectangle sirloin patty with provolone which is placed between two slices of thick Italian bread. In between the patty and bread is very thin vinegary cole slaw, tomato and of course a load of fries. One bite, and it kind of falls apart, and then you spend the rest of the meal trying to get the sandwich back together. And, bring cash - the Primanti brothers don't take checks or cards.
1980's The Blues Brothers, directed by John Landis and starring Dan Akroyd and John Belushi is truly a classic. In a nutshell, Jake and Ellwood Blues (eating a steady diet of four whole fried chickens- no fries- and a coke and dry white toast, respectively) are on a "mission from god" to raise $5,000 to save their beloved orphanage from the Cook County tax man. They decide to get "the band" back together (the sign should read :The Good 'Ol Boys Blues Brothers Band) and take to the road (definitely lower Wacker Drive). That over simplification is akin to saying that Pee Wee's Big Adventure is about a guy who lost his bike, but that's the premise - it's the road they take and the people that they meet (the aforementioned Paul Reubens, Carrie Fisher, Aretha Franklin, Ray Charles, representatives from the Illinois Law Enforcement Community, Bob of Bob's Country Bunker, Illinois Nazis, etc) that make this the best rhythm and blues revue ever. And, if you happen upon Ladies Night at the Palace Ballroom Theater, then you are even more in luck, because everybody needs somebody, you, me, them, everybody.
The Recipe:
Two slices of Italian bread, sliced thick (not toasted)
1/4 pound sirloin beef patty (shaped like a rectangle
Provolone cheese
Sliced tomato
Angel hair cole slaw (see below)
Load of hand cut, cooked french fries
For the Slaw:
1 head green cabbage, thinly sliced or shredded (it is possible to purchase Angel Hair slaw)
3 tblsp apple cider vinegar
1 1/2 tblsp vegetable oil
Pinch of sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Toss the shredded cabbage with the vinegar and oil. Add remaining ingredients and toss again. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
For the Pitts-burger:
Grill the beef, melting the cheese on top. Place on one slice of bread. Take a handful of fries and place on top. Add a handful of slaw and place sliced tomato on top. Place top piece of bread, press down and slice. Open wide, serves 1.
If this all seems too much to do yourself and you want to taste the original in Pittsburgh, watch the speed limit, the police are likely to have SCMODS, but not disco pants and hair cuts.
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